From an escort to your table to a polished waiter wearing imported Italian leather aprons, the seafood-oriented Buka delivers all the buzz. While a minimalist room at the swanky Four Seasons in Yorkville can legally accommodate 140 people, the owners keep it up to 85, which should tell you how seriously they take their customers ' comfort. Chef Robert Gentile, who, by the way, works with British chef Jamie Oliver at the opening of Jamie's Italian restaurant in Yorkdale shopping centre, not only achieves regional authenticity, but also manages to lift country food to magnificent heights.
A whole raw sea bass is theatrically carved on the table and neatly finished with Prosecco and fresh lemon. Other highlights include Gaspe scallops with yoghurt lump caviar and Pacific cod tongues in zabaglione bergamot.